Archive for July, 2011

Kandy: Whoa, I Think I May Have Entered a Parallel Universe By Mistake


2011
07.25

I was going to title this post Kandy Says, but I doubt anyone would get (or favourably appreciate) the Velvet Underground reference.  But you know what? I have no clue what Kandy is saying. Seriously. This town is a riddle wrapped in an enigma wrapped in a really awesome fresh chapati.

It’s not just the head wobble. I’m fine with the head wobble.  I semi-deciphered that in India five years ago.  I’m fine with the fact that a lot of conversations seem to emerge, as noted just above, in circular riddles where I’m left wondering what my question even was.  No, these are okay. I’m pretty comfortable with uncertainty and I actually make a good living from others’  relative lack of clarity.

Sri Lanka - 028 - Kandy Buddha statue

Photo borrowed from mckaysavage off Flickr until I upload mine

But Kandy? Kandy is special. We can’t seem to find anything here. Seriously. I’m sure this is a post I’ll look back on in a few weeks with a shudder and sense of self loathing for my ignorance. I have about 2 years’ worth of emails home from Turkey that I now can’t bear to look at because I got everything so startlingly wrong. (more…)

Final Notes on Having Gone Home- Aw, Dang it, Canada!


2011
07.24

This is me in Canada

It’s a funny thing writing about Canada from an internet cafe in Kandy, waterlogged and slightly dizzy from the monsoons, with bejajs sputtering past and Sinhalese pop music blaring.   I’ve had a follow-up post fomenting in my head since, well, since about a week into my three week trip back home. I even took copious notes while I was there, tapped with one finger onto my ipod screen then eventually emailed to myself, a loose collection of thoughts as they came to me and observations as they occurred.

For those of you who are waiting anxiously to get back to my original focus (um, hello, impractical guide to Shanghai?) you will have to wait until mid-late August. Until then, my friends, China has left the building.

Let’s get the Canada post out of the way, shall we?

Canada and I, we have what is referred to in social media circles as a complicated relationship. Let me give you an example.

When we flew into Colombo the other night, delayed until well after midnight, delirious with two levels of jet lag, there was a television monitor above the immigration officer’s booth. It read: The Ministry of Something or Other warmly welcomes you back to your motherland. I felt warm inside, being welcomed back to a motherland that wasn’t even my own (hell, I’d never even been to Sri Lanka before and they were welcoming me back like a lost lamb!).

Now let me tell you about coming home to Canada back in 2007 after 3.5 years in Turkey when I hadn’t been able to get home due to work and money and visa complications. I should note that this was just before Christmas and I had just flown into Vancouver after two days en route from Istanbul via Amsterdam. I was shaking with exhaustion. When I finally reached the end of the queue for immigration, I handed the woman my passport and declaration form. As a Canadian citizen, I filled out the part for Canadians, noting that I’d been away since 2004. The officer shouted at me to return to the end of the line and to fill it out as a visitor rather than as a resident. Her last words to me as I turned away to fill in my form again (incorrectly, I might add) were: “When you decide to stop living in the middle east and return to Canada then we’ll call you Canadian again!”

So yeah, me and Canada.

What I have here is a collection of the notes I made whilst in Canada, edited for context and clarity. Most were written in a tent or in the rain. Some were written in frustration, others in recognition.

This would be Jericho Beach in Vancouver
  • In cafes, I see them everywhere. Supermarkets too, as mixes. Chai lattes. Sometimes referred to as chai tea lattes, which is partially redundant and barely resembles what is served in India but I am loathe to come out and mention it because I fear I might sound pretentious because I know things because I’ve traveled a lot. But really, people, Chai istea. Same same.  Sometimes when I am not careful, I feel just a flinch of condescension and I hate myself for it. And I like chai lattes, which makes it even worse.

    This is how they do tai chi in Vancouver

  • When I was in Turkey for many years without a break back home, all the Canadians I came across moaned about how much they missed Tim Hortons, how the thought of TimBits and a DoubleDouble made them achingly homesick and I came to believe that these things might possibly be true and I started to irrationally associate Tim Horton’s with my own mythical homeland, thinking that they actually were good or had some deeper national feeling for me. They aren’t and they don’t. When I came back this time, I decided to check them out for myself, having not stepped into one since some time in the early 1990s. Tim hortons is crap.  The coffee is like dishwater and donuts sickly sweet and idea of a doubledouble (aka double sugar, double cream) is an abomination. Like a lot of coffee I was served, it’s coffee for people who don’t actually like coffee.  But I feel vaguely wistful when I hear the name.

My friends and I the day before I left Turkey in 2008

  • I went to a dinner party at my friend’s house just before I went back to Shanghai. He’s from France but is now Canadian and his guests were from France, from Brazil, from Ontario, from the West Coast.  All were somewhat self-defined outsiders to the Canadian mainstream. There were some very intense conversations about being Canadian and about being on the fringes of being a Canadian, whether due to being an immigrant or an expat.  One thing that was noted was that myth of Canadian politeness, which is actually quite lovely to be enveloped in after years of pushy shouty crowds in Asia.  Apparently Canadians say sorry for everything. Why are they always apologizing in situations where they are not at fault in any way, asked the non-native-born Canadians and non-Canadians in the group. I nodded sagely and agreed that it was oddly passive and possibly meek (etc, etc).  Then, at the end of the evening as I was putting my cardigan on to go, I dropped my keys on the floor next to the Brazilian guest and automatically muttered, ‘sorry!’ Everyone grilled me as to why exactly I was sorry and, really, I couldn’t say. Maybe it’s ingrained.

My cat is apologizing for sitting on my dad's uke.

  • Canada- or rather, the West Coast, or rather, Vancouver and southern Vancouver Island- is inconsistent in how it hits me and my emotions. I loathe it or crave it depending on context or neighborhood or weather. When I first arrived, I spent the weekend with my friend from Istanbul and we drove around running errands and blurted out how frustrated we were with how our lives had worked out since leaving Turkey. We were in big box super stores and Home Depot and we were jointly annoyed with our surroundings and the indignities she had endured since emigrating.  But other times, when the sun is lovely or even when it’s pouring rain but oh, there are trees! I am delighted to call it my homeland. When there are good visits with family (and there were many), I love Canada. When we camp up island, I love Canada. When I see all the vegan organic farms and artisan goat cheeses, I love Canada. When I stumble upon the inevitable summertime drum circles with the helicopter dancers and the reek of sweet smoke, I love Canada– especially if there’s a beach in the background and a ton of trees.  But the superstores and car culture and sprawling towns and uninspired architecture baffle me.

If this is a drum circle, I must be home...

  • I love that there is music everywhere and and that creativity is seen as something to be encouraged and not stifled (at least not too much). I love the overt air of activism and social responsibility– or at least the lip service among many and devotion among a key few.  I love that so many people make their own wine and brew their own beer. I love that I have friends and family there who mostly get me but I know that there is no real room for me to fit in.

Like I said, it’s complicated. Tomorrow I’ll talk about Sri Lanka.

Not a Top 10 List: My 7 Favourite Posts


2011
07.14

The bag of fudge is not in this picture.

It’s a funny thing about going home again after a relatively long absence (a year and a half this time), even if it’s only for three weeks: Everything is just so normal and calm and sane and utterly non-extraordinary that I really don’t have much to say about it. It’s just home, you know? And sure, while we were up in the Comox Valley last weekend, camping at a music festival for five days, living in a slightly leaky tent with a stack of library books and a borrowed banjo and freezing my ass off in the early morning chill with fallen dew soaking my sandals, I had a ton of time to scribble notes about reverse culture shock and my own self-exile and sense of geographical aimlessness and the wonder of really big trees and whatnot on the empty brown paper bag that once contained very good home made organic peanut butter and chocolate fudge from the festival fudge purveyors (it was a small bag- please don’t imagine that I had managed to polish off a kilo slab of fudge in just a day or two).

Those scrawled, fudge-smeared notes will probably turn into another blog post as soon as I can wrap my head around them.  As the inimitable Fiona said to me when I recently moaned about my lack of writing inspiration, just because no one is trying to sell you dried abalone in the street doesn’t mean there’s nothing worth saying. After all, just because Vancouver Island is pleasant and ordinary and totally familiar to me doesn’t mean it isn’t of interest to others who have never been here.

But that is for another post.

This post is a cushy little list post prompted by Unbravegirl, who nominated me to contribute to a little project that’s been working its way around the intarwebs recently.  Basically, Tripbase, is running the 7 Links Project which asks bloggers to publish a list of seven of their favorite posts and then to nominate 5 other bloggers that they enjoy reading to do the same. It’ll probably end up being the same dozen or so bloggers nominating each other, back and forth, with a ton of back-patting and whatnot but hey, I like self reflective lists.  They’re much easier to tackle than concepts of home and settlement and family. I’m still waiting for my trophy though. Unbravegirl definitely owes me a trophy for my nomination. I will, of course, accept belated trophies in the form of, say, nachos or margaritas if the standard golden cups are out of stock in suburban Wuxi.

Given that this particular blog is barely a year and a half old, I fear that a Best-of retrospective isn’t exactly called for just yet.  After six or so years of blogging rather anonymously about Turkey (and a bit of China) on Livejournal, I moved over here to my own hosted site last April. Only about 5 people (excluding my immediate family) ever read that Livejournal blog, which is a bit of a pity as I had a lot of really good posts, way back when. However, that blog spans a whole 6 years of intensive almost-daily writing and I can’t be bothered to delve into the archives for a Best Of list so I’ll stick to this site. If you’re curious about what I wrote during most of the past decade over there on LJ, I archived a rough and rather arbitrary Favourites list back in 2006 or so. Looking at that list now, I’m not really sure why I chose those posts specifically. Maybe I was drunk or insane.

Today, I am neither drunk nor insane but I have had three large mugs of strong coffee, a huge mug of tea and four capsules full of detoxifying dried nori powder this morning so any bizarre choices can be attributed to their influence. (more…)

Pan-Fried Goat Milk Paneer with Chilies, Garlic and Ginger


2011
07.06

Yesterday’s goat milk paneer recipe may have ended on a cliff-hanger. That final photo of the cheese cloth wrapped bundle of freshly drained cheese was only the beginning of the story. Paneer is a beautiful thing, and goat paneer has surprised me by being even better than cow paneer. It’s creamier and milder and a little less rubbery than my previous experiments. Or maybe I’m just getting better at making fresh cheese. Anyway, I just wanted to add a follow-up note for those of you who needed to know what happened next.

As you may recall, this is where we left off:

My bundle of joy

This lovely little fellow was left to drain for three hours in the sink, squashed by a full kettle of water. If you want, you can catch the whey that drips out and use it in cooking. It’s good stuff.  After it drained, I molded it into a roughly formed rectangle, about 3 cm thick, and put in in the fridge overnight, still in the cheese cloth but kept safe from fridge smells and drips by a zip-loc baggie.

This is what I hauled out this morning and sliced up. It tastes awesome just as is, but quite plain and mild. You could always add chopped cilantro or chilies in the earlier stages after draining but before forming it into a rectangle.

The drained and squooshed paneer is cut into happy little cubes (I did this the day after the cheese-making)

I googled no-bake paneer recipes because I wanted something that could be used in Asia without an oven, preferably with just something wok-like. I found this recipe on Cooktease.com.

For grinding

  • Green chilli – 3 no
  • Lemon juice –1 table spoon
  • Ginger garlic paste – 1 table spoon
  • Thick curd – 2 table spoon
  • Mint (Pudina) leaves – few
  • Saffron food colour – pinch
  • Sugar – 1/2 tea spoon
  • Cumin seed (jeera) roasted and powdered -1 tea spoon
  • Garam masala power – 1/2 tea spoon
  • Turmeric powder – 1/4 tea spoon
  • Red chilli powder – 1 tea spoon
  • Salt – as per taste

Anyone who has ever watched me cook knows that recipes are more like hints or suggestions rather than, say, something to follow. I go for the gist of the recipe.

Things I didn’t have: green chilli, thick curd, mint, saffron, red chili powder, food processor for making a proper paste.

What I did instead: three spoonfuls of Hunan chilli paste from Chinatown (quite spicy- I like my heat furnace-like), left over lemon juice from the paneer (I ended up using about 2 tbs), a 1/2 cm thick disc of fresh ginger the diameter of a quarter (chopped very finely), one clove of super enormous elephant garlic (equivalent to about 1/3 of an average head) also minced super fine, freshly ground cumin, some garam masala powder that I’d bought on a spice farm in Goa years ago but never opened (still fresh smelling), turmeric and sea salt. I just mixed all of these together instead of making a paste.

I’ll show you what I did.

I had googled a recipe but didn't have half the ingredients so I improvised

Marinade close up!

In a wok or a tava, on a low heat (I had it on 3 for electric), with a blorp of oil, fry gently until golden brown on at least two or three sides, if not four or more (if actually cubed and able to balance)

The recipe had called for a spice paste but I just chopped everything up. It worked fine.

Breakfast of champions!

The final product is marvellous: soft, goaty, gentle, creamy inside with a pan-fried golden outside that is spicy and garlicky and gingery and just fried-crusty enough to give it a lovely textural contrast. I think I got about 17 or 18 cubes out of that 2 liter jug of goat milk and we’ve eaten all but three pieces already. I called it breakfast but, damn, I’d eat it instead of pop corn during a film or as a side dish or for anything really.

 

How To Make Goat Milk Paneer (and a few meditations on place and purpose)


2011
07.05

In the back of my parents' big ol' truck, reading about goat farming, with camping gear.

I’ve been back home for just over a week. The skies have been all sparkly and bright blue and the sun shines so brightly that, well, I have to wear sunglasses a lot more often than I’ve ever had to in Shanghai. Have I ever mentioned how grim Shanghai can be? Maybe once or twice? Sometimes I even go all Corey Hart here and wear them at night.

So yeah, everything sparkles like a cheesy chaste vampire and the air is fresh and alarmingly sweet and there’s a lot of really pretty waterfront to walk around, all lined with lots of green, fragrant trees and a lot big, fat, stinky roses. The streets are quiet. Cars stop for me at cross-walks, even without traffic lights. My mother thinks it’s hilarious how I am still reluctant to step out into the street without looking 4 ways (are there scooters coming up behind me at 60km/h? Is there a car about to do a U-turn using the sidewalk?).

Here in the mythological land they call Western Canadia, you can breathe without triggering too much asthma; you can drink the water without adding to the heavy metal content of your blood stream; you can buy milk that isn’t made from plastic derivatives; you can walk side by side by side on a sidewalk without disturbing anyone.

It’s awful! Just intolerable. Agony!

Or not. Actually, it’s REALLY nice. Alarmingly nice. Disconcertingly nice.

I know I left (and kept on leaving) home for a reason. Or maybe a number of reasons: restlessness, crappy job options, high cost of living, realistic fear of complacency, curiosity about the rest of the big old world out there, reluctance to stay in one place, stuck, forever. All very valid reasons. Hell, in the week and a bit that I’ve been back, I’ve been reminded of all of those caveats and they still mostly apply, nearly twenty years later.

However, now that I’ve hit my mid to late 30s and have been living a very uprooted lifestyle since just before my 20th birthday, I have had a few second thoughts about a possibly endless expatty life style.

Here are a few things that I would like to somehow incorporate into my life at some point: friends stretching back to childhood who know me like family and whose children will know me and whose dogs will know my dogs (if I even have dogs); big, goofy dogs and marvelous cats and maybe chickens or ducks or goats; a big ol’ kitchen with access to a big ol’ garden where I grow my own non toxic veggies and herbs and whatnot; a job other than teaching or internetty writing stuff- something more artisanal, more hands-on, like a goat farmer who makes awesome cheeses and weaves tapestries from the goats’ awesome hair (because goats can have awesome hair) or carpenter or midnight-shift small town baker; a house not an apartment, with land around it to allow for said goats and a reasonable amount of silence aside from howling dogs and night frogs and whatnot; a library! A library either of my own lovely books that didn’t have to be given away every time I moved from country to country or a town library where I could borrow English language books of any sort any time I had a hankering for words that weren’t on a screen (which is increasingly frequent).

This is the former doghouse of my childhood dog (now deceased, as dogs really don't live THAT long) up in the back yard (aka 2 acres) of my parents' place up in Cowichan, where I grew up. The hypothetical goats could clear that out in no time!

Sometimes I think my secret life wishes (and these have been fairly consistent over the past few decades) run totally in opposition to the other half of my non-secret, fully-active life wishes. I like travel! I like living abroad! I being the prodigal daughter who suddenly pops up at home every few years! I like being able to pick up and move and change on a whim! I like our flat, smack dab in the middle of Shanghai, 16 floors above the crowded lane ways of the French Concession!

Could I really handle a stable lifestyle, with the same friends, the same goats, the same rooms, the same land, year after year, with no casual jaunts to Burma or Cambodia for a month or so at regular intervals? No regular bouts of culture shock to keep me mentally on my toes? Could I bear the butt-widening desk job that I’d probably have to take when my goat cheese business totally fails to make any money and my dreams are dashed? Could I handle needing a car to do anything or go anywhere?

Probably not. And Doug would probably be bored out of his mind.

So, in lieu of giving up my crazy, madcap expat lifestyle to dedicate myself to perfecting a perfectly herbed chèvre, I’ve decided to bring the more manageable bits to my urban life. Like, say, making goat milk paneer. Not using my own goats. That would be just impractical. The goat milk was from the super market and I got the lemons from Fisgard Market in Victoria’s China Town, just for a little cultural confusion. Once my batch is drained and pressed in a few hours, I’m going to marinate them and sautee them and make something awesome. Because I don’t necessarily need my own goats to have goaty goodness in my life.

ETA: There is now a follow-up post with a recipe for spicy pan fried paneer. It’s very, very good.

(more…)

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