Hey Zhou: A Totally Impractical Guide to Hangzhou and Fuzhou

2012
01.19

I’ve been on a bit of a ‘zhou bender in the past month, flitting around the Eastern seaboard of China with two 4-day stints in Hangzhou and one down in Fuzhou. Given this, I should be writing a top ten list of places to visit, delightful things to see, local delicacies to sample, cultural curiosities worth noting. This, however, would be impossible because I’m on a totally different Tour de Chine.

Yes, I’m on the other tour. The Work Tour.  My super-secret part-time job is one of those theoretically coveted types that both pays well and lets you stay in exotic locations like, say, Hefei or Nanjing or Dalian, put up in places like the cushy Hefei Hilton (reportedly, the cheapest Hilton in the world, folks, but the bubble bath still has glitter in it and the bath tub comes with your very own yellow rubber duckie, gratis!) or the Huhhot Shangri-la (I’m still waiting for that assignment). It’s not the CIA but it’s close.

Yes, dear readers, I’m not the brave backpacking globe trotter you might have mistaken me for. When in Nanjing, I sleep at the Sheraton and I get there by way of the soft-seat class on the posh G-trains. Work pays for it all. I’d probably go hard-seat class and sleep on a park bench if left to my own devices (though these days, I’m sure Doug would have a flight booked and adorable boutique hotel reserved before I got a chance to cave in to my old, painful habits).

Having just spent a cumulative week in both ‘Zhous in the past fortnight, what can I tell you about their delights? Which scenic points can I point you toward? Which culinary treasures can I enlighten you on?

Er, none. I was working. I was locked in a room for hours at a time, grilling people, cop-style. The only thing missing was the spotlight, which would have actually been really nice because our venues aren’t well heated.

My itinerary was generally thus: taxi-train (or plane)-taxi-university-taxi-hotel-bed-taxi-uni-taxi-train (or plane)-taxi-home.

Let me give you a few highlights of my whirlwind Tour de Zhou.

Even this shark saw more of Hangzhou than I did this time

Read the rest of this entry »

Nothing to Say Here (The Solutions Edition): Put A Shirt on That Pig!

2011
12.31

For today’s edition of my Shanghai photo series, I have a small task for you. You see, yesterday I saw something confusing. Something I hadn’t seen before in this city.

I saw this.

Naked lunch: Shall we dress the pig in corduroy and denim? Or satin and lace?

Yes, that’s a pig. And yes, she’s wearing her best quilted winter PJs to take the pig for a walk.

I had something else on my mind though. Something far more pressing.

I wanted to know, why wasn’t the pig properly dressed like every other mammal in this city?

Be all you can be!

I’m thinking of assembling a proper outfit for the pig for the next time I see him out for a walk. What should he wear? Is he the sporty type? Should I get him one of those hooded track suits I’ve seen on poodles? Or a jeans and button-down shirt set, like I’ve seen on a few larger dogs? Maybe a militia camouflage ensemble? And what about shoes? Velveteen booties? Sneakers? Black cotton Chinese slippers with, say, dragon embroidery?

Any suggestions?

Oh, and one more dried meat shot for the road.

At the dry cleaners, not only is our wedding dress airing, but also our future dinners

Nothing to Say Here: Shanghai Street Photos (Mops!)

2011
12.30

You know what Shanghai is? Shanghai is MOPS. Period. Screw economic prowess, massive deconstruction projects, shiny buildings and nouveau riche bazillionaires and their homicidal spawn and their ¥10,000 bottles of moutai in garish clubs. This city is all about the mop.

See?

Mop, drying duck, drying fish, huge pants drying on a laundry line, black car illegally parked: Shanghai in a nutshell

Read the rest of this entry »

Nothing to Say Here: Shanghai Street Photos (Curing Winter Meats)

2011
12.29

As you may have noted, my writer’s block is rather acute these days. Oddly enough, this dearth of things to say has coincided with an inexplicable increase in my impulse to take pictures of random things. Of course, these photos aren’t necessarily fit for human consumption as they focus mostly on mops and meats and demolition sites. Mind you, my writing dwells on essentially the same things anyway so it shouldn’t be too much of a detour.

For your viewing pleasure (or whatever else you may define it as- I’m open to suggestions), here is the first in a series of random, uncategorized photos of Shanghai, taken for no particular reason.  Today’s theme: salted, cured meat hanging in the streets. Every winter, our street gets strung up with flayed fish, hung ducks and laundry lines of drying sausages. Last year we even had a series of grim, butterflied pigs. It’s fascinating in a morbid kind of way.

Chorizo

Read the rest of this entry »

Nothing to See Here; Kindly Move Along

2011
12.28

Once upon a time, I used to keep  paper journals where I wrote down everything I saw and thought. I spent long afternoons in pubs and cafes across Europe and Africa, nursing rationed cups of tea and writing down the minutiae of my twenty year old life. I have a box full of those journals stored unceremoniously in a cardboard box up in my parents’ crawl space.

I haven’t even looked at them in over a decade. I kind of cringe at the thought. Judging by the quality of the writing in my high school notebooks found this past summer when I was back home cleaning out my old room, some things are better left unread. I’ve toned down the hyperbole over the years. I think. I hope.

Sorry, this is one of the only photos of myself from that era that is actually in digital format. Look, Hungarian wine!

Those journals recorded all the ways in which my hopeful heart was broken (so many ways, my god!), the endless nature of overnight bus rides and the long slog to find affordable accommodation (dorm beds, sofas, floors, benches), the tedium of pretty much living off bread and cheese for weeks on end, the chronic bronchial infections from living in damp, crappy hostels, the minutiae of daily life, down to the last cup of tea and the doings of people whose names I have long since forgotten.  Read the rest of this entry »

Top 4 Tips on How to Traumatize Your Parents When They Come to Visit You

2011
12.13

I’d call myself the prodigal daughter except I have yet to return home after my years away in the wilderness. Every year, with irregular clockwork, my kind, brave parents gird their loins, apply for visas, book astronomically priced red-eye flights and come to see me. I repay their loving parental support by allowing these visits to degenerate into chaos, danger, discomfort, illness and exhaustion.

Sometimes I think that these visits devolve into madness and confused terror because I’m generally as integrated into my home abroad as a fish is in helium: the language, the unwritten cultural rules, the subtleties of traffic regulations generally evade me and I spend most of my life flailing about, hoping to not screw up too badly or to get anyone killed. I’m going down ignominiously and I’m very obviously taking them with me.

That said, I’m not the only one who can seriously traumatize their parents when they come to visit you abroad! You can too with my simple yet effective list of hints and tips!

Survivors!

Read the rest of this entry »

I’m Nothing if Not Versatile. PS Dear Shanghai, I Don’t Hate You Any More

2011
11.19

 

What a pleasing shade of green

As I sink deeper into my hermit-like faux-unemployment and entertain myself with the delusional quest to make flatbreads out of every conceivable noodle dough,  I find myself somewhat at a loss for words here.

I mean, this is, in theory, a blog about Shanghai. An impractical guide to Shanghai but still, a blog about Shanghai.

Do you see any updates about Shanghai? Any at all? Even tangentially?

Er. No.

I think I’ve kind of run out of things to say about this city, even though I really haven’t said much at all. Not unless you count mops and murdered chickens and smog and chill. My repertoire, you see, is almost painfully limited, which is why I don’t make my living as a writer. The market for doomed street chickens is limited. Read the rest of this entry »

Hello, Dalian! A Totally Impractical Guide to That City up by Korea

2011
11.03

And by impractical, I really mean it this time. I have absolutely no information that might be of use to you here, unless you get sent up for work at the very last minute, as I did, and need to know where you can get really good sushi (*hint hint* the Grande Teda Mercure hotel at the edge of town really knows its sashimi but it’s only available as part of the dinner buffet so you’ll be forced to eat the dozen or so perfectly formed desserts as well, which possibly negates the nutritional and aesthetic benefits of the delicately sliced fish).

Why was I in Dalian? And where is Dalian anyway?

Well, let me tell you what it isn’t. It isn’t the long form version of Dali, so I definitely wasn’t down in Yunnan, smoking a ton of weed supplied by twinkly-eyed grandmas with dreadlocked backpackers. It also isn’t Dalyan, down in the lovely Muğla province in the South West of Turkey, near Marmaris and Fethiye.  No Lycian tombs for me, no ancient amphitheaters, no blue skies or access to decent meze and raki. Alas.

Screenshot from the Dalian wikipedia page

The Dalian (aka 大连) that I was shipped off to for a frenzied weekend of Super Secret Educatrix Work is the one up in Liaoning province on a little peninsula looking over at Korea, on the verge of being Dong Bei but not quite. It’s the northernmost southern port and the southernmost northern port. Or something like that.

It’s northern enough that the people are really huge (comparatively) and there are cabbages everywhere; however it’s still southern enough that I was getting by in just a cardigan at the end of October. It is apparently famed for its supposed warm water beaches and, if my students are to be believed, its modernity as exemplified by shopping malls and tall shiny buildings. From what I’ve gathered, it was the southern tip of the Trans Siberian Railway back when northern China was colonized by the Russians.

Ceci n'est pas Dalian. This is Harbin. Isn't it awesome?

This doesn’t mean, however, that it escaped with an awesomely old-skool Russian onion-domed downtown core like Harbin. No. Dalian is pretty architecturally dull, actually, from what I could glean. Aside from a few anachronistic neo-classical public buildings and some older, walled houses that I passed by in the taxi from the airport, everything else was pretty much the usual low-key apartment blocks intermingled with generic boxy businesses. I’m sure there are a few traditional Chinese gardens tucked away in parks somewhere but, like I said, I was barely there.

Why was I up on that little peninsula way up North, looking over at Korea? Well, it has to do with my Super Secret Side Job– or rather, now that I’m unemployed- my Super Secret Main Job. The Beijing office was short staffed so last Thursday I got a phone call telling me that I had a flight booked for 9am on Saturday, returning Sunday night. Yes, I am a true jet setter in the nerdiest interpretation of the term.

I spent the entire weekend in about four places: the airport, the taxi, the hotel and (mostly) the university. I am now intimately acquainted with Liaoning Normal University (辽宁 师范 大学).

I am here now to give you my totally impractical tour de Dalian, educatrix-nerd style. Come join me as we explore the richness of Dalian that I was able to capture during my whirlwind tour! Read the rest of this entry »

An Impractical Review of Matador U’s Writing Program

2011
10.07

I don’t tend to write reviews. Of anything. Any attempts usually end up with me just blathering away about mops and privilege for 1500 words, accompanied by unrelated photos.

However, now that I’m pleasantly unemployed and have a great big stretch of free writing time in front of me, I’d like to introduce you to the people who nudged me out into the public sphere, gave me the tools with which to do it properly, encouraged me at the beginning and continue to do so now, and who have given me far more opportunities than my lazy self has bothered to take advantage of.

This would be their home page

Read the rest of this entry »

How Not to Travel in China During the October National Holiday

2011
10.02

For about a month, our conversations went something like this:

“How about Thailand? If we fly in to Phuket, we could catch a ferry to X and go diving for 3 days…”

“No, no- what about the decompression time after and before the flight? I’m not keen on getting the bends. And my passport only has two free pages left. The lady at the airport in Bangkok yelled at me about that back in August. ”

“Well, how about the Philippines?”

“I’m not in the mood for a week of lethal public transport. And they’re flooding.”

“Japan?”

“Too expensive. Am unemployed, remember?”

“India?”

“I don’t have enough passport pages for a visa, remember?”

“Lijiang? Dali? Shangri La?”

“Too crowded.”

“Kashgar?”

“Flights are over $1000. Not really worth it for a 5 day holiday.”

“How about…Datong?”

“Datong? Where the hell is Datong?”

“It’s up near Inner Mongolia, in Shanxi Province. It’s the most heavily polluted coal mining town in China. Part of the Great Wall is there. They have the least holy mountain in Taoism. And a hanging monastery. And they are famous for noodles and dumplings.”

“Well, sure, let’s go!”

And so we booked our flight to Datong.  I felt a frisson of excitement whenever I thought about it. 5 days in Datong!

I practised saying it with all the wrong tones, drawling out a gleefully languid Texan Dah Tawng rather than the accurately abrupt Dàtóng. I’m going to Daaah Taaawng, I’d drawl to anyone who’d listen. I’m going to Daaaaaaaaaah Tawwwwnnng an’ am gonna clamb thayut Big Wall o’ China an’ I’m gonna eat me some noodles! Yeeehaw!  

Chinese colleagues scratched their heads in absolute incomprehension. Where? Where are you going? Sorry?

Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa Taaaaaaawg! 

Yes, I am that big of an unsocialized dork.

Look at what Datong has to offer and you can see why I was getting disproportionately giddy over it.

The Hanging Monastery. Photo courtesy of bigguyoz

The Yungang Grotto, by Theodora

And so on.  Read the rest of this entry »

Notes on my Supposed Unemployment: The September Edition

2011
09.30

Remember how I’ve been going on and on for months about being unemployed?  How it felt weird to be so suddenly unstructured and aimless after decades of chronic employment? Yeah, well, I lied. Kind of.

I am unemployed, by the day-job definition of employment. At 6am most days, there is nowhere I need to be except my bed with a cup of coffee and a few choice web pages open.  And this, my friends, is magnificent.

Kevin the Panda knows what I'm talking about

Read the rest of this entry »

Why, No, Red-Black is Not My Natural Hair Colour: How to Try to Look Half Decent in China

2011
09.23

I’m a rather low-maintenance kind of gal, generally. It takes me about two minutes to get ready for going to work, maybe five for going out.

In Turkey, I succumbed temporarily to the subtle yet persistent societal pressure and for a while ringed my eyes with black pencil, brushed on mascara, owned three different colours of lipstick, and wore foundation and powder more than once every few weeks.

I used to go to the güzellik salonu every month with my immaculately groomed Turkish lady friends to have every stray hair above my neck either waxed or threaded off (they wanted me to get everything everywhere torn painfully off, as it is the custom to be toddleresque, but I declined, for six persistent years).

I grew to enjoy having beautifully arched eyebrows that made me look (if you squinted enough) vaguely like a 1940s Hollywood film star.  I got really elegant, girly haircuts. I even wore heels sometimes- admittedly clunky big heels with knee-high rainbow striped socks, but heels never the less. And I’m someone who spent most of my 20s in Doc Martens, jeans and vaguely-styled hair (aka combed).  However, my Turkish elegance was impermanent, and not wholly by choice.

Bet you don't even recognize me here (2007, Istanbul)

Here in China, I’m too tall and too wide to buy clothes. My feet are monstrously huge. My skin tone doesn’t match the make up that’s for sale here– at least not the kind I’m willing or able to afford. I have a very hard time explaining to hair dressers exactly what I want, so I tend to avoid getting my hair cut until it can’t be put off any longer (like, um, now) and as a result it is often straw-like and shapeless. Don’t even get me started on what the toxic tap water does to it or my skin.  Read the rest of this entry »

And Now For Something Completely Different: Impractical Shanghai Revisited

2011
09.10

When I started this blog a year and a half ago, I really did intend to be at least vaguely useful in my writings about Shanghai. I think I mentioned one blind massage place (still excellent, by the way), a few Lanzhou la mian joints (also fabulous) and one half decent cafe. After a while, however, it all started degenerating into a mishmash of mops, grim skylines, long convoluted rants, expat interviews and longer and longer pieces of writing about increasingly complex and personal topics.

It got to the point where I found posting to be a very daunting and exhausting process. So I kind of stopped writing. Once every fortnight or so, an idea would pop into my head and I’d write about it in a burst of energy that would leave me feeling utterly depleted for another week or two.

However, in spite of the annoying mental blocks it has caused, I like the tack my writing has taken here and I don’t really want to go back to writing short pieces about where to find a decent espresso or what those old ladies are doing in the park. What I don’t like though, is feeling overwhelmed by the idea of writing something long and thoughtful and resonant every single time. I don’t like the self-inflicted writer’s block.

Backstory: half of a chalkboard in a classroom that had been partitioned...

About four months ago, I found out that my job was being pulled out from under me, just one year into a two year teaching contract. At the time, I was floored. I couldn’t fathom being unemployed. I’d never done it before. I’d been working since I was 16, with breaks of no more than a few months at a time. I now had a great big gaping maw of a year before me. Even though my job was exhausting and I was totally burnt out and had been really quite unhappy and lonely for most of my two years at that university, I was unexpectedly afraid of change that seemed to be beyond my control.

...and on the other side of the new wall, the other half of the chalk board

I’m over that now. Being unemployed is marvellous. I should have done it earlier. I still have work but I don’t have a day job.  No more 5:30am starts. No more sitting on my ass in my empty office, killing time between classes, staring at a heavily firewalled computer, feeling drained and numb. The work I do now (the super secret exam stuff) comes in mad bursts and I’m inundated for a day or two with insanely long hours and intense focus and then, magically, it’s done for another week. I can indulge in my awkwardly impractical circadian rhythms and pad around the flat at 3am, my head full of all those thoughts that kept me up all night for years. I used to have to label it insomnia but now it’s back to just me being a night owl.

I now have my days free. I am like a lady who lunches or a trailing spouse. With so much free time on my hands, I need a hobby, a project, a cunning plan. So far, in the weeks since we got back from Sri Lanka, I’ve spent my days drinking coffee, marking essays, brainstorming, making pancakes, going to the gym, napping and writing.  And I’m really enjoying the writing. But I’m not writing here, as you may have noticed.

I’m writing here (click on the picture for the link):

It's actually practical!

Yes, I’ve started a food blog. Like every other person on the planet who didn’t start a travel blog, a mommy blog or a lifestyle design blog. I’m one of them now.

I wanted a place where I could write about totally impersonal things, where I could throw myself into a puzzle and talk about what I figured out. It’s strangely cathartic, writing about making cheese under Chinese circumstances.  I find myself getting sleeplessly excited about, say, garam masala or home made tortillas at 2 o’clock in the morning, researching how on earth they could be replicated in a wok with just a duck neck, corn starch and tofu skins.

In addition to giddily deconstructing food riddles at midnight and documenting my perhaps futile efforts to solve them, I am also plotting a handful of other writerly projects for the coming year which I never had any energy for until now.  Did you know that being a writing instructor for a living is actually bad for your own writing?  I was so busy teaching and marking other people’s work that I couldn’t find room in my brain for my own.  Not working full time as a teacher has given my brain the space and time it needs to actually formulate complete thoughts, moving from just coping into, hopefully, thriving. I feel saner. I feel a lot less disembodied. I’m a lot less pissed off in general. Shanghai has been grey, humid, rainy and frequently as grim as ever recently, but you know what? I don’t care any more.  It doesn’t bother me.

I think I’m going to be okay this year.  Wish me luck. I may need it.

 

 

And You May Ask Yourself, ‘How Did I Get Here?’ (Let’s Talk About Privilege, Shall We?)

2011
08.31

One of these mops is not like the others

About five years ago, a friend of mine in Istanbul sent me a questionnaire about privilege, which I dutifully filled out and posted on my Livejournal. I was, I discovered, fantastically privileged. This was something I had suspected for a long time but had never fully articulated or itemized before.  My particular brand of privilege was not one of summer houses or ballet lessons or holidays abroad (or hell, central heating, cable TV, or new clothes on a regular basis) but it was there and I still wear it like a cozy body suit that is so familiar that I sometimes forget I’m wearing it. Before I continue with this post, I want you to do the questionnaire. Tick all that apply and then think about it for a while. I’ll wait here. Go on then!

What she said

I’ll just drink this coffee while you tally your privilege
 

Read the rest of this entry »

A Totally Impractical Expat Interview #16: Camden Luxford of The Brink of Something Else

2011
08.25

Welcome to the 16th thoroughly impractical expat interview with Camden Luxford of The Brink of Something Else! But first, let’s talk about me.

After barely a week back in Shanghai, my body has already readjusted to the intuitive requirements of living in this city.

When I walk on the sidewalk, I automatically look 360 degrees around me at regular intervals to make sure I’m not about to be ploughed down by a wayward scooter who has no intention of diverging from its path, because scooters (and bicycles and probably black cars) have the unofficial right of way on sidewalks here. I once saw a scooter speed down a sidewalk, run straight into the back of a pedestrian, slicing up her calf and bruising the back of her knees and tearing her skirt, and he yelled at her for being in his way. Yes, it can be like that. I once had a car nearly hit me. On the sidewalk. From behind.

When I cross the street on a walking green light, I also look 360 degrees around me at least once to make sure no cars, bikes, scooters or runaway buses are racing through their red lights (as they do) or are making rather dubious left turns directly into my path.  In Shanghai, every day is like a remake of Speed and every bus driver aspires to be Sandra Bullock. If this bus goes below 60km/h, even when there’s a red light and pedestrian crossings, Dennis Hopper will come back from the dead to do terrible things to everyone!

As I walk, my eyes automatically scan the people ahead of me to see if any are intending to hoark up a huge wad of spit at the moment I pass (I narrowly missed a mouthful of projectile mouthwash from a woman in pyjamas on Yongjia lu an hour ago).

Shanghai uses up a lot of energy just in daily maintenance and survival rituals. I’m not even talking about the linguistic or cultural hurdles one must leap over. If you are new here, perhaps freshly arrived from somewhere a bit more, um, controlled, it might seem a bit overwhelming and exhausting. Hell, I came here from Turkey and I still found it exhausting.  I also found Turkey exhausting. Your mind can never really turn off because you’ll probably get run over or slammed into or trod on or spat on or get a big bucket of smelly crab water, shell fragments and all, tossed carelessly all over you on your way to work. It has happened. You have to be vigilant.

This is our street. I'm sure there's a scooter racing up behind me on the sidewalk.

Which, in a strange and convoluted way, leads me to our next lovely interviewee, the fine and daring Ms Camden Luxford of The Brink of Something Else. You see, Camden has written extensively about the inner exhaustions of being an expat. In fact, she even interviewed me about expattery last year for her series on adjusting to living life abroad.

Indeed, it isn’t all beer and Skittles, gin fizz, gated compounds, country clubs, expat bars and serving wenches! No, there is a lot of internal crap that you have to deal with when you have chosen to live a life like this, especially if you do it all not as one who is on a cushy expat package, complete with overpriced housing in all-gringo compounds and private drivers and maids and a salary that can let you pretty much bypass actually living in China (trust me- Shanghai has many such folk).

Some of it gets easier over time (I can vouch for this as I think I might be almost happy-ish at the moment, if you can believe it) but some of it just keeps whacking you across the head, ad infinitum.

Camden is a tough cookie who has been through a very interesting couple of years since settling down to run a hostel in Cusco, Peru. The adjustment from traveler to expat hasn’t been an easy or smooth one.  I’ll let her tell you all about it. Read the rest of this entry »

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