Archive for October, 2010

(101 Things About Shanghai) Provisions


2010
10.30

As I am gearing up for the improbably overambitious NaNoWriMo, I’ve had to scale back on actual thoughts about reality in Shanghai. This doesn’t mean I’ve stopped being horribly invasive with my mobile phone camera. I’m now up to 601 poorly focused pictures in my barely year-old phone. I intend to keep going until I max out the memory or until my neighbours finally snap and tell me to stop taking pictures of every bloody thing that happens on our street.

Can I show you some things?

Our street is part road, part unofficial pedestrian zone, part live-animal/vegetable/fresh noodle market.

Got eel?

These days, it’s hairy crab season so there are baby-bathtubs filled with live crabs everywhere. In the evenings, there are random crunchy crab parts underfoot and the occasional escaped crab scuttling to their freedom. I point them toward the river (which is far, but closer than the sea) and wish them fare-thee-well. Go crabs!

These days, every shop doubles as a crab shop

Things I hope to never see in my bath tub

Technicolour hairy crabs

Last month was river shrimp/crawfish/giant bug season- xiao long xia in Chinese- and the baby bathtubs were filled with grey shrimp-shaped creatures, writhing away with hoses steadily pouring fresh water into  their antechambers of death. In the evenings, the road was littered with tails and crunchy peelings with legs attached.

Fresh!

Lately, in addition to the fish and eels in the bath tubs, and the doomed chickens in cages next to metal trays covered in their unlucky brethren’s bloody feathers and entrails, and the frogs and turtles in netted buckets, there have been ducklings wandering around, loose. I don’t know if they are intended for a long-term dinner project or as pets, but they are available for purchase near the Jiadeli Supermarket on Jiashan, near Fuxing Lu.

Chickens (and other doomed birds) in the death cart

Free bird

Duck!

You can also buy turtles a la carte rather than in bulk from the buckets.

Get yer fresh turtle here!

And finally, because just as one ought to know where one’s meat comes from, one also ought to know where one’s mops come from.

I buy mine in bulk

(101 Things About Shanghai) More Things I Don’t Need


2010
10.28

You know you want them

Reflexology shower gel bath gloves and socklets for those days when you don’t have time to visit your friendly neighbourhood blind masseur. Sorry for the photo being a crappy mirror-image Photo Booth thing but I actually have to, like, go to work or something today and can’t spend all morning faffing about setting up a real shot. Aren’t they awesome?

(101 Things About Shanghai) The Mrs Mu Home Shopping Network


2010
10.24

My Tea and Herb Market Stash

For someone who has an incorrigible habit of packing up and moving every year or so (and sometimes even more often), I also have some terrible lingering pack-rat habits that have followed me from my much younger, more geographically stable days (like, pre-1993).

I buy stuff.

I buy really stupid, pointless stuff that I never use. Or use a few times (with great enthusiasm) then forget about.

I buy stuff that I end up leaving behind in flats in London, in Galway, in Cape Town, in Istanbul and Shanghai.  There are probably still South Park figurines stashed somewhere in a cold-water shack in rural Ghana and watercolour paint brushes in a closet in Shepherd’s Bush in West London. I know for a fact that I left twice my body weight in stuff behind in Turkey when I left two years ago.

For a limited time only!

I’m busy here in Shanghai accumulating more potential detritus that I know for certain won’t fit in the overhead luggage compartment: stuffed elephant and hippo from Ikea, a stuffed panda from Chengdu (all proceeds went to panda charities!), a yoga mat I haven’t unfurled in about 6 months, hand weights I haven’t lifted since august (I lift chalk! A lot- and when you write above shoulder height for five minutes on the blackboard it hurts! It’s a workout!), a ton of bootlegged books-by-the-gram, art supplies I picked up on Fuzhou Lu  over a year ago in a fit of creative inspiration that petered out embarrassingly quickly, a half dozen very large and awesome marionnettes from Myanmar, several very heavy (but pretty) not-really-antique metal statues from the not-really-antiques market on Dongtai lu, a slow cooker, a rice cooker, a marvellously heavy wok (well seasoned and pretty much the only thing we really use in the kitchen these days, aside from occasional slow cooker stews), a dozen pairs of shoes that almost fit me but not really, and, um, yeah, other stuff.

I haven’t exactly sold all my belongings to start my life of minimalist freedom on the road.

In fact, I’m making it worse. Or rather, Mrs Mu in my office at work is making it worse: she only comes in once a week (she’s a part time lecturer at my university) but her influence is far greater than the time I’ve spent with her ought to be.

I buy stuff from her. Or rather, I buy stuff through her. She has an incorrigible TaoBao addiction, with TaoBao being the Chinese version of eBay.  Every Friday, she comes into the office, grinning from ear to ear, showing me her latest toys. She buys awesome toys. Let me show you what she brought in last week, which I then begged her to get me:

The Health Hammer ™ as modeled by Kevin The Panda:

You know it's good when pandas like it

Health Hammer, only 20rmb!

This is a handy dandy 3-function qi aligner, with a bonus back scratcher attachment that doubles as a hand-qi-rake.

The pointy hairbrush bit on one side of the mallet end is for strategic pounding of your arms and legs and feet, like the old men and women do with just their fists as they take their exercise down our street at 6am, smacking themselves as they walk.

There is a knobbly hard plastic dome on the other side of the hairbrushy bit that is for the second stage of pounding your extremities. It feels pretty good after a long day of writing at above shoulder level on a chalkboard.

I bought two.

She’s also notorious for regular visits to the tea and medicinal herbs (and bark and twig and dried animal) market near the university. I have already written a post about my attempt to go there to buy something magical that would give me energy, vitality and perhaps a hint of immortality.  A lot of those bags of bark and twig are still in the kitchen drawer because they taste so vile when brewed that I approach them only every few months.

However, I don’t need to actually go there myself to buy things using my handwritten herbal glossary and Lonely Planet useless phrasebook and my embarrassingly mispronounced skills in mandarin. She goes there weekly and asks me ever so casually yet enticingly if I’d like her to pick anything up for me. I would! Of course I would!

So now I have these (and more) in my desk drawer at work:

This makes skin pretty!

This makes you magically slim!

This ones gives you dewey skin AND boosts the immune system!

And I actually do drink these.  For now.

(101 Things about Shanghai) Mops and Kibble Buffets


2010
10.18

The Mops of our Building

It’s Monday evening and I’m tired from a semi longish day trying to persuade my  students to engage in the learning process so I’m offering another instalment of Mops of Shanghai.

This first set of mops is from just at the entrance to our building. There are usually a few there, balanced atop one another, drying in the sunshine. They have a good life. They seem happy, by mop standards.

And the mops at our gate, outside the massage house

These ones are at the gate to our building (the entrance is round back), belonging to the massage parlor that occupies the bottom front portion of it.  They don’t seem as rested or calm as the entrance ones. Dishevelled, a bit scraggly, with only a fire hydrant to perch on. They have each other.

The Weekend Kibble Buffet

Back at the entrance to our building, we find the weekend cat buffet. It seems to only come out at weekends and I’m guessing there is free flowing champagne as well in the guard house. During the week, the cats only get a small tray with a handful of kibble from a jar in the utility room.

Captain Rainbow, our gatekeeper

And this is Captain Rainbow, the primary cat of our building, the cat with fabulously mismatched blue and green eyes. There are other cats that come and go, all related in their whiteness. Captain Rainbow is our constant though, and can be found in the bushes or, when available, parking spot #10. At our old flat, we had a family of ginger cats who were also well catered to. That whole mythology about Chinese people and cats and stir fries (probably based on famines/deprivation/great leap forward agrarian miscalculation) does not apply here.  These cats are well tended to.

I Hate Crowds: Travelling in China During National Holidays


2010
10.14

I miss that red bag.

I really do hate crowds. Crowds make me want to hit people or queue jump just to escape from the queue (because in China, some queues are so vast and switchbacky that to get out you have to go forward). I don’t like noise. I really like quiet, empty places. People en masse exhaust me.

Case in point, one of my favourite places in the world is the Wahiba Sands in Oman. I went camping there about four years ago during Ramadan, back in the days when I commuted between Dubai and Istanbul (as one does), sleeping on a raised metal platform under the stars, high enough so the scorpions couldn’t bite, with a bare mattress slammed down on the slats. There were shooting stars all night. I was giddy with nearly perfect happiness and oh, let me tell you, I am not someone who is ever giddy and I can rarely be described as perfectly happy. I hover on the edge between frantic and spaced out and veer heavily towards the melancholy.  I have a definite cut-off point for social interaction, and until I started learning the finer points of social graces it used to manifest itself as me freaking out mid-dollhouse-role-play, adamantly insisting that my fellow 5 year old friend(s) must get out of here now. I’m better now. Social graces and all.

Yeah, you saw the sign!

But I still like my quiet, empty places.

And yet. And yet since 1994, I’ve spent 3 years living in London (in a shared house yet! in a shared room! shared with drunken, shagging, e-tripping Antipodeans without a 6am work wakeup call), 6 years in Istanbul, and now nearly two years in Shanghai. Three of the hugest, most crowded cities in the whole world. I’ve learned to deflect the accumulated energies that emanate from the hordes and I’ve learned how to create private spaces out of nothing.  I’ve learned how to travel in China during Golden Week holidays without banging my head against sharply angled concrete surfaces. It’s been quite a while since I’ve kicked a taxi. When we went to the Shanghai Expo, I only smacked one queue jumper with a rolled up magazine. Just one.

40 degree heat, a bazillion percent humidity, over two hours in an unmoving line

But I still don’t like crowds.

And yet, we still went to Chengdu for the National Holiday at the beginning of October, along with approximately 1.6 billion other people. Other Chinese Holiday Excursions have included Hangzhou and Beijing. They were so overpacked that I actually put together thematic photo albums of Other People’s Holiday pictures (see here and here). I simply couldn’t take a picture without another person in the frame.

The first morning in Chengdu, we ventured forth to find the giant statue of Chairman Mao and to maybe find a non-awful coffee somewhere (not a problem, it seems, as even western China now has a bazillion Starbucks everywhere, including right next to the Tibetan Quarter and the Monk Robe Supply  Street).

This is the view from the upstairs seating area in one of the city centre Starbucks.

Oh god, make it stop

And this was in the pretty neighbourhood where we stayed.

Please make this vibrancy stop

And this was the queue to see the Really Giant Buddha at Leshan, a few hours by over crowded bus from Chengdu (we gave up after about 90 minutes after rounding a bend and realizing that what we thought was going to be the end point was really just a pause before the next part of the queue, and then another, and then another. I don’t think it even had a final destination)

This is only the first 25% of queue length

You get the picture.

This is why I have been known to come home on a friday evening and not actually emerge from the flat until monday morning.  Maybe next time we should just pack our bags and head to Kashgar.

Ceci n’est pas un laptop


2010
10.06

Laptops go well with Rumba Gusta

It was a few hours after we got the news that our flight to Chengdu was to be delayed from noon until night that I got the call from the techie at the apple store. We were already at the airport, trying to kill time by borrowing the piddly wifi and drinking 30kuai watery beers. I didn’t even hear my phone for the first minute or so that it rang- my ring tone is the Muppets’ mnah mnah song and it frequently doesn’t dawn on me that it’s connected to a phone.
Anyway.
The kindly fellow called to inform me that my logic board was irretrievably fried and that it would cost about as much to fix it as to buy a whole new one. Oh, and have a lovely national day golden week holiday! Since he was calling me from work on what should have been a bank holiday, I wished him a restful remainder of the week.
So our week in Chengdu was off to an auspicious start.
We’re back now, flown in this afternoon. I dashed out to pudong to claim the body and to pick out a new one. Since my hard drive was not affected by the mystery shot of espresso that killed the logic board, the lovely lily zhang at the genius bar is busy copying all my data to the caffeine free MacBook pro. It should be ready by morning.
As I’m writing this on my iPod’s tiny touch screen, I am limited in what I can post tonight. There are tons of hopefully lovely/weird/appropriate photos waiting to be uploaded and there are a number of things about Chengdu and china and national holiday hordes waiting to burst forth from my brain as soon as the more conducive medium is picked up and running.
For now I shall resume reading books and doing non-internet based activities. Radical.

Next day ETA: Got new Mac back! Got photos uploaded! Feel human again! For now, I have links to uploaded Facebook albums here and here and here. I’ll try to get stuff up on this site as soon as I get my act together.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...

© 2011-2012 Mary Anne Oxendale / A Totally Impractical Guide to Living in Shanghai All Rights Reserved -- Copyright notice by Blog Copyright