Archive for December, 2010

Ain’t I a Bear? Gerald the Bear Tackles Authenticity and Place


2010
12.28

Gerald the Bear

When I was first introduced to my co-blogger, Mary Anne, who is also the owner of this blog, she looked at me dubiously and said, “You’re not a panda”.

We were in a tea house in North Shanghai, surrounded by hundreds of Chinese students and teachers and wait staff. On the ceiling were red lanterns and on the table were plates and bowls full of assorted tongues, tails and testicles. There was flower tea, Coke and Sprite on the tables.  The primary language being spoken was Mandarin, with an undercurrent of Shanghainese.

We were introduced in English, however, as her Chinese is still pretty appalling despite having lived here for nearly two years.  Her students had decided we would get along well, as we had much in common politically and philosophically, and I speak quite decent English. However, our relationship got off to a somewhat rocky start. As I said, I’m not a panda.

Why is my taxonomic classification of any relevance here? Well, let me explain.

This is all about authenticity. Authenticity seems to be a buzz word these days, especially on the internet and in particular on those innumerable travel blogs she insists I read in preparation for writing here.

“Know your competition, Gerald!” she tells me every morning over coffee. “Know what we are up against! We need to be able to show people the REAL China, the off-the-beaten-path China! We need to talk to Locals and to write about their wisdom and insights! We need to make lists about these insights! We need to show people what is real here!”

Having been designed, stuffed and sewn in China myself, I thought I knew all there was to know about being Authentically Chinese.  Hell, even my laundry-care tags vouch for me. Made in China. That’s me. But apparently I’m not the right kind of bear to be convincingly Chinese. I saw the disappointment in her expression when we first met.  I knew she was wondering why her students had thought to introduce her to a bear who was so obviously not a Chinese bear.

And how do I know I am not a Chinese bear?

Think about it. If I say the words to you, Chinese Bear, what comes to your mind first?

Panda. Like Kevin. Kevin is a Chinese bear in her eyes.

Kevin and his Authentic TCM Health Hammer

What do Chinese bears eat?

Obviously, bamboo. This is the traditional Chinese bear cuisine.

Now, as I had noted earlier, I am Chinese, both in pattern-design and in stitching. My stuffing comes from Guangzhou, my seams were sewn in Taiyuan. I was raised in a factory and sold off a tricycle-driven street cart.

Am I not a Chinese bear?

Am I not black and white enough? Does my diet of honey and grubs and black coffee fill you with doubt? Does the fact that I wear a kicky tartan bow tie throw you off?

I am certain it does.

You see, I am not authentic enough in people’s eyes to be a Chinese bear. Authentic as defined by post cards and guidebooks and a lifetime of expectations about what a Chinese bear ought to be. I will never be seen on a post card and no tourist will ever take the time to pose for a picture with me. I do not evoke images of Karst hills or of winding rivers.

However, I am a Chinese bear and slowly my co-blogger has come to accept the fact that although I am not black and white with a penchant for bamboo shoots and a painfully low sex drive, I am indeed as real a Chinese bear as there can be.  I can tell you about what I know of my nation and my people and my fellow bears.

If you have any questions about what it means to be a non-traditional bear in China, do feel free to ask me.  If there are enough questions, I may turn this into a regular Ask Gerald About Authenticity column.

Gerald the Bear is accepting freelance blogging opportunities now!


2010
12.27

I just wanted to take a moment out of your presumably busy day to introduce you to my new co-blogger, Gerald the Bear.

Gerald, pondering the infinite universe

Gerald joined me late last week, thanks to an introduction from my thoughtful students at the university Christmas party. So far, Gerald has proven to be a thoughtful, insightful bear, filled not only with flammable foam but also with ideas on slow travel, authenticity, getting off the beaten path, and finding one’s place in the greater universe.

He also has a cunning time machine that allows you to go back in time before a regrettable blog post was written and make it as though those words had never been uttered.

He works for a flat fee of honey, grubs and any ad revenue generated by his posts.

Ladies and Gentlemen, Gerald the Bear. *Applause*

Gerald can also do instructive photo essays on Ashtanga yoga

My Students Gave Me Stuff for Christmas!


2010
12.26

This is going to be a very short post. I just wanted to show you my haul for this year, from my students.

First, the big one:

We haven't actually named hir yet. Gender as yet undetermined.

And then two smaller gifts combined:

Pretty wooden coasters with calligraphy and watercolour pictures, and posh chopsticks in silk sleeves

And finally, the slightly crumpled gourd-y ornament:

A gourdy Christmas to all!

Oh, and the three apples.  I gave one to the cleaning lady at work who always attempts to say Hi to me, so only two left to pose for the photo.

To keep the doctor away!

Christmas Day Odyssey in Shanghai: A Quest for Doug’s Destiny


2010
12.25

Hukt on Phoniks Werkt for me

So remember how I said my next post was going to be all about the Christmas Party at the tea house, and how it would contain all my much-better camera photos rather than my crappy, grainy phone photos?

Yeah. I lied. My bad.

Unfortunately, we went out today. And when I go out, I tend to see stuff. And I take more pictures. Mobile phone pictures. So, rather than presenting with you a delightful photo essay featuring clear, sharp pictures and a focused narrative, I’m going to tell you all about what we did today in our quest for Christmas breakfast, lunch and a particular PlayStation3 game for Doug (part of his Christmas Joy ensemble).

I should preface all of this by saying it was awfully cold today. And we walk. We walk a lot. You know how a lot of people in most countries, like, drive cars or take a ton of taxis or tuktuks or scooters or whatever? Yeah, no, we walk a lot.

We walked up to Jing’an after our breakfast pide and coffee at the Donghu Lu Wagas (who make the best scrambled egg/gouda pide ever), breath visible and thighs numbing through too-thin jeans. Apparently there was a Famous Video Game place up on Beijing Lu that was all the rage with foreigners who appreciated a fine smuggled PS3 game. Doug had grand Christmas Day plans for a particular game that he had failed to track down before and had high hopes that these folks would have it.

On the way, we saw a few things worth noting.

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A Fine Excuse To Eat: The University Christmas Party (Part 1)


2010
12.25

I think I have two narratives here so I’m pre-emptively dividing them up into two posts. The taxonomical sorting process is based on two things: crappy phone camera vs. real camera, and food vs. performance and festivities. It’s Christmas morning and we’re heading out soon for a fine feast at Wagas (scrambled egg and gouda pide panini! cappuccino! Oh, China!) so I’ll start with the easier, faster mobile phone post.

We had our annual Christmas party on Thursday evening. If you don’t know already, I’m the lone teacher in a tiny little Sino-Australian joint venture program in the tiny little forgotten North campus of the otherwise Huge and Important Tongji University.  The head teacher in the main program (who is based over at East China Normal University) jokingly refers to my end of the program as that little brother that’s kept under the back stairs and only brought out a few times a year for feeding but otherwise forgotten. I, however, refer to it as The Tongji Autonomous Region. I rule it with an iron fist. Or perhaps, silk. I’m now up to 5 silk tunics.

So my 44-odd kids organized the annual Christmas party at a tea house down the road from the university, about a 20 minute walk alongside an eight-lane ring road, overlooked by spider-webbed flyovers.  Very atmospheric. They tried so hard. They practised for over a month and had a million meetings in the otherwise always empty meeting room next to my office. I’d walk past on my way to the loo and I’d see Jerry busting out into funky Off The Wall era Michael Jackson moves through the glass door. My kids are funky.

They sent me a beautiful invitation.

Top left corner. It has lovely 3D designs.

On the day of the party, I was spared the toxic 20 minute walk alongside the freeway, having been offered a ride with the local Party Leader who apparently had to attend at least the first half hour of every Tongji University celebration- at least until the MC went on stage and thanked her for attending. Then she left.

In the Party Car, woop! woop!

At the tea house, some of my boys broke out the flower blossom tea, as them mad cap teenagers are known to do. Chug chug chug!

You should have seen them when they moved on to Sprite and Coca Cola at dinner! Partaay!

The Christmas party lasted about four hours, a combination of endless plates and bowls of food being served, well beyond the point of satiety or sanity, and a lot of song and dance and theatrical skits. I got a ton of presents. I’ll tell you more about all those in the next post, as they were taken by my good camera. This post is for my grainy, no-flash paparazzi phone shots.

The phone shots are mostly food. Let me show you what we ate. I’ll tell you in advance that I tried (*tried*) to try everything, as I’d like to think I’m open to anything (at least once) but I should also tell you that I was a vegetarian for a reallllllly long time because I’m super squeamish about meat. Let’s just leave it at that.

For your viewing pleasure, a Chinese banquet.

Cissy the admin assistant and her daughter Twinkle, sampling the wares. An overview.

The cold offal snack plate

A smiley, happy fish covered in peas and carrots

I think this is jellyfish. I once had a bad experience with jellyfish.

This was mushrooms. I hate mushrooms. Alas!

Sea life! Mrs Gu insisted I suck back several of the snail'y ones

Anthony Bourdain would have appreciated this: Pork! Fat!

More pork, more fat, but crispy this time

The soup was good.

This was dessert. Pastry stuffed with (I think) buttery mashed spud

The next day, several of my students gifted me with Christmas apples.

There were 3 but I gave one to the cleaning lady on the 6th floor

Nihilism in Shanghai: Everything Dies. Everything.


2010
12.22

Even the octopi are trampled

I’m a very optimistic person in spite of all my references to key words like ‘bleak’, ‘grim’, ‘awful’, ‘miserable’ and such.  My character leans toward the melancholy but not in a depressing kind of way. I actually like rain. I like solitude. I like somber. I find them very calming.

But can I tell you something about living in China? Something somewhat akin to living in Istanbul and always expecting to find a dead kitten around the next corner.

For 4 years I did. There are a lot of mashed, flattened, sick, sad, dead kittens in Istanbul. My heart broke regularly. I still flinch when I see fur lying down.

However, in China, I doubt the cat would be dead long enough for me to discover it in its reclining state. There are plenty of street cleaners out to deal with that.

The thing with China is that eventually you come to realize that almost everything you see on the street will die soon. I don’t mean people (we all die- am aware of life cycles). I mean the stuff you see daily in the streets. Like the doomed birds. Like the chicken/pigeon/duck death cart. The styrofoam boxes full of hastily plucked feathers and gore, overlooked by the still living brethren, obviously disturbed by the nearness of their doomed companions’ bits and pieces.

The death cart

I walk past this every morning. All the tethered ducks and caged chickens and doves; all the eels and frogs and turtles in plastic mesh-covered boxes; all the squirming, gasping fish— they’re all going to be dead by the time I come home in the evening.

It makes you think. A lot.

And today I walked past veggies that made me sad.

Sad, sad bok choy, alone

Abandoned greens, on the brink of death

I do eat meat (after a decade and a bit as a vegetarian) so this  *ahem* socialist realism is a daily reminder of the implications of the choices I have made . That chicken soup we had for dinner? Yeah, it was in a cage yesterday. I don’t even want to think about the cilantro. It makes me too sad.

And Festivus? That neutral celebration that all in Shanghai can partake of, if they so desire? Yeah, well, it results in a bazillion poinsettias in foil-wrapped pots that are bought in early December, never watered, then tossed out, wilted with the new year. Guaranteed. They are popping up all over town now. I know now that no one cares about them. They will be set out en masse, filling window displays and lining apartment building entryways, and none of them will be watered, ever, and they will all be unceremoniously tossed out by mid January. Oh, Shanghai.

The doomed poinsettias, and the drink to numb the grief

Another Series of Unrelated Photos (Part Trois)


2010
12.19

Remember how cold and sick and coughy I was at this time last week? How dim and grey and grim the city was?  How my toes would not warm and my bark continued to bite? Yeah, well, this weekend is much better, thank you.

Look! Sunshine! Blue skies! Invisible pollutants!

From the pedestrian overpass on the Yan'an ring road

I’m not working this weekend, nor will I work any other weekend until at least late February.  My current motto: Sanity comes first!  No more bone chillingly wet weekends spent out at echoey university campuses (campi?) in the middle of nowhere, using up the last of my vocal chords. No, no, I intend to use my weekends wisely- eating, drinking, sleeping, taking invasive photos, entertaining parents (and after that, Doug’s parents), and perhaps a little light reading. I still have a dozen or so bootlegged books in a towering stack by the side of the bed, still wrapped in plastic.

So what does one do when not working oneself to death? Good question! Let me show you what we did yesterday!

First of all, just around the corner from our flat there was a sudden street market on Saturday morning (and again today), which had vaguely festive ornamentation (bows, boughs, bells, etc) with Chinese characteristics. We strolled down there en route to our morning coffee and pide at Wagas.

Just up the street from us, and around a corner

Some traditional Festive flayed pig, anyone?

Perhaps you prefer your flayed pig inside out?

Also, Festivus sea food tidbits in buckets

All the pomegranate you could ever need

My free sample of...um...smelled smokey?

Or maybe some traditional salted, dried fish for Festivus?

And the traditional pickled lotus root

And we mustn’t forget the fellows up on the scaffolding, trying not to be pushed over by the crowds.

Training for Cirque du Soleil

Because it was a beautiful day (sunshine, lollipops, the whole shebang), we decided to walk to the Nanjing Rd fakes market, where we had planned to replenish our tattered, seasonally inappropriate wardrobes. It’s a bit of a walk (about an hour) but an hour is nothing compared with, say, ten hours of interviews and four hours in taxis over the course of two days. It’s all relative.

Nanjing Rd West was all geared up for Festivus.

Festivus tree!

Even the toys were getting into a festive spirit of sorts.

I don't know what the horse is doing to the gorilla but they seem happy

At the Fakes Market, we did well, which is not an easy feat. It’s one of the only places in town that sells jeans fit for anyone with hips wider than your average ten year old. I have female students who are bigger than me (shock! horror!) and have no idea where they buy their clothes. No department store seems to have anything bigger than a 26/28 in jeans. That’s small. I found two pairs of jeans that fit (a miracle).

Let me show you my changing room. It was about one meter wide and filled solid with jeans. There was an entry hole right behind where I was standing to take the photo that opened directly onto the shop, and by extension, everyone who walked past the shop. There was no door. Just so you know.

My changing room in the jeans shop

We went to Taikang Lu’s Tian Zi Fang warren of gentrified alleyways for lunch, thinking that calzones and beer from New York Pizza would be a fine reward for having battled the seven circles of grabby hell at the fakes market.

Festive calzone in Tian Zi Fang

There was also a remarkable amount of moppery abounding for me and my mop fetish.

Outside sink with mop

Plants on various ledges with mop

Windows and sinks and mop

Drainpipe mop

No mop, but birds!

It was in this warren that I found my delicious little shoes, as mentioned in yesterday’s post. I’m so proud of them I’ll post their photo again. Aren’t they lovely?

Pretty shoes! And more where they came from!

And finally, in case you were wondering, we didn’t trample.

I was tempted

I’m a foreign woman and I bought shoes in Shanghai


2010
12.18

Just so you know, I’m a tall girl with size 9 feet. That’s about a 7 in the Uk, 39 in Europe and apparently 40 in China. Most shoes for women stop at size 38 here. Just so you know.

From a tiny boutique in Tianzifang, the artsy alleyway complex off Taikang Lu, I present you with the shoes that actually made it onto my ginormous feet.

For my big ol' laowai feet

I also found two pairs of jeans that fit. More on that miracle later.

Welcome to Tropical Shanghai. Today’s temperature will be -2 degrees.


2010
12.16

According to official Chinese government regulations, if a city is located south of the Yangtze River it is considered tropical and therefore does not need to be heated in winter. Shanghai is located about one millimeter south of the Yangtze River, as can be seen from this map, stolen from the Wikipedia page on it.

Notice how the river conveniently goes waaaaay south just left of Chongqing. Now they are tropical down there, I’m sure. Up here in tropical Shanghai, we have snow. And poorly insulated buildings. And frequently unheated buildings. Like schools. And my students are wearing coats and hats and gloves in class. And now that I am sick (again), so am I. I had been wearing regular shirts (as one would, at work), wrapped with a shawl for a bit of warmth. Coats and gloves are awkward to teach in. However, Mrs Gu, the Year 2 classroom teacher, sternly reminds me every day that my lack of jacket indoors is firmly responsible for my bronchial issues. Not overwork, not viral strains or bacteria, not the persistently open windows blasting (fresh!) cold air into every unheated hallway.  No, it was my lack of jacket indoors that floored me.

This is Mrs Gu. She really does love me in spite of my naivete about how illness is spread.

Yesterday, Shanghai decided that a nice little snowfall and a hint of plummeting temperatures would do us some good.

It snowed

Even the bikes were snowed on

And the doomed fish

And the freaky doll hidden in the bushes at the primary school

And the lingerie model

Even Santa was snowed to death

So, yes, we are officially tropical. We’ve been trying to keep our flat warm but have not been quite successful yet. I’m wrapped in my huge Turkish shawl and have my feet deep in my big felted Kyrgyz slippers but my toes are still numb and my fingers are stiff and I can feel draughts everywhere even though the heater is on.  I ate hot soup for breakfast and I’ll eat it again for lunch because the warmth is just so damned lovely.

Kevin the Panda will show you what we are up against.

This was yesterday afternoon

And this was this morning

Did I mention it’s -2 out there? All you Canadians and Northern Europeans are probably laughing at me right now but you wouldn’t be laughing if you had unheated classrooms or uninsulated buildings or no central heating or windows so permeable that you can feel the cold from a foot away.

I want her big fluffy boots

If anyone wants to send me a million dollars (or RMB or Euro or whatever) so I can go retire somewhere warmer, please email me or leave a comment here. I accept PayPal donations, Amazon gift certificates and cash. I also accept applications for Sugar Daddies, Sugar Mommies and any other combination on that theme. Even a Sugar cat would suffice, providing it had the cash to keep me in cocktails in Bali for a few months.

Christmas cat is afraid of you

Chinese University Students on Love, Lust, Dating and Marriage


2010
12.13

ETA December 14: Now with more love, lust and dating! Added quotes!

Part 1 in the series (Helpful Household Hints) was here

I originally typed this up sometime last week, back when I still had the energy and wasn’t consumed by a great big ol’ ball of sickiness. I’m currently consumed in a non-tubercular way by a deeply unpleasant cold (again) and by the cumulative exhaustion brought about by too much work. Yes, I did speaking tests all weekend. Yes, I nearly lost my voice again. Yes, I am still questioning my lifestyle choices.

Here are a few random photos from this weekend.

Industrialized Self-Service Hot Water for my bottomless mint tea

A rainy Sunday morning out in the wilds of Songjiang University Town, on campus, cold

In spite of me feeling like crap, lunch was very good out there

Luckily I didn't fall into any deep water and catch my death of cold

Rather than moan about how tired I am (I am!) or how I wish I could have slept all weekend instead of croaking out interviews with several dozen people (with intermittent coughing and sneezing), I’m going to present you with part 2 in my series on advice, tips, ideas and opinions from my students.  This week, they’re going to talk about love. Yes. And they have many thoughts on the matter.

Talk amongst yourselves, whilst I go have a nap, kids!

My students (who are awesome) had grappled at length with the abstract concepts of Love and Like and Lust and whatnot and had emerged victorious, with many things to say. I wish I had a photo of the board work from that day.

I’ll give you a photo from a similar class I had here in Shanghai a few years ago, in my first job.

Do what the Vocab says

So, without further ado, here is some food for thought and a brief foray into the minds of a few random 19 year old urban middle-class Chinese kids:

When we children, we do not have the ability to know what is ‘love’, maybe we do not know now either. However, it is undeniable that we have the lust… “Love” in the schools is an irresistible trend. Throughout love, we can exchange ideas, emotions and information. e can be benefited both physically and mentally, thus improving the study.  As the saying goes, ‘love is like a butterfly. It goes where it pleases and it pleases where it goes.’ All of us have the wonderful imagination about love. At the touch of love, everyone becomes a poet. On the whole, it is high time that we recognized the significance of love. It makes us mature and do not be afraid of the hurt during the love. Received the injury better and can grow up. No cross, no crown.  D.L.

Don’t promise somebody and don’t fall in love with some people before you graduate, even if you love he/she very deeply. Because you can’t give they anything until you find a job. Money was not base on love but if you don’t have enough money you cannot do anything for your love. It is so terrible. Jeff

Love is a thing between two lovers but marriage is a thing between two families. To live together is a good way which two lovers know each other and communicate with each other. It is terrible that couple find they aren’t appropriate after they got married even had a child. It is needed to know each other clearly before marriage and living together before marriage is okay. Vienna

Driven by the uncontrolled emotions, the university colleges increasingly tried to find a partner who they desired for during university time. However, it’s a not  correct idea for most students. First of all, the university colleages are too young to solve the contradiction. Since they grow up with the parents’  love, they always thought they were right and should be protected. Owing to this idea, they often had words with the partners. Only when they get elder and know how to respect and understand each other will they have abilities to creat a happier atmosphere among them. Tony

In 21 Century the more people are work hard in office. They are work in any time so have lead to many people haven’t time to do otherthings like dating. I think freedom of marriage is important but the marriage introduction service is fashion in 21 Century. Many unmarried person are find they lifelong companion. Many happiness lovers from there then they living in happiness life. I think arranged marriage ever is not bad idea! Xu Dan

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Nibblies, cookies and crepes, oh my!


2010
12.09

Today I stocked up on my coping-stash at work. The weather has turned frightfully cold after the loveliness of the weekend and it was quite difficult to haul myself out of the warm flat and out into the streets to go to work. I knew I needed some sort of incentive to deal with sitting for hours at my desk in an increasingly dark office. I needed cookies and hot milky teas. Large quantities of them.  So I went shopping at the corner shop next to the university and bought a ton of crap.

I’m totally hooked on the instant hot milk tea cups with the little plastic packets full of jellied fruit bits that you add to the powder mix. I’m currently grooving on a green tea theme, though the purple taro root flavour also rocks.

I’ve also transitioned from the green tea Oreos to the chocolate peanut butter ones, just to drive Unbravegirl mad with envy.

The little snacky bag is full of crunchy little puffed rice cakes, black pepper flavoured, I think. They are very good.

Yes, that is a poster of a half naked chick with a glass of Absinthe on my desk. I have no colleagues, nor supervisor.

As well as keeping a drawer full of wholly-chemical over processed crap, I’ve also been enhancing my days with a lovely hot jian bing in the mornings on the way to work. There is a lady on our block who makes awesome ones, all crepey and hot, smeared with chili paste and stuffed with all sorts of crunchiness.

She moves too fast for my phone

I think I need a pair of sleeve protectors.

A Series of Unrelated Photos (Part 3)


2010
12.05

Part 1 is here and part 2 is here.

It’s a beautiful day today. Sun is shining, skies are blue. Scarves are too hot, a coat is nearly too much. Sunglasses are needed. Birds are singing, crowds thronging, babies squatting with split trousers, dogs in summer booties, veggie vendors out in multitudes. December? Nay, I believe we must have accidentally fallen into a wormhole and ended up in May sometime. After November’s grim awfulness, today is lovely.

I took a lot of pictures. Let me show you some of them.

We set out for a long walk up to Julu lu for lunch, after a maddening morning when the coffee grinder suddenly wheezed to a halt after producing perhaps a teaspoon of usable coffee. I had to run out to Starbucks at 7am, which is not really my life’s ambition of a Sunday morning.  Lunch was better.

We sat here, upstairs at the lovely Nepali Kitchen by the window overlooking someone’s very white fluttery laundry, where we had saag paneer and spicy spuds and parathas and whatnot. It was a long, slow meal, with thoughts and discussions of running away to Syria or Uruguay being tossed back and forth.

We ate in the sunlight

Out in the streets, much was afoot. There were pyrotechnics on the center line of Julu lu near Xiangyang for someone’s wedding, annoying the cars trying to actually drive down Julu.

Setting up explosives in the street

Oh boy, more explosives!

There was a row of child sized chairs all pretty in the sunlight.

Ten in a row

There was generic but sincere holiday festivity in the air.

A couple erotically inspired by the Happy Festival greetings

Just in time for Festival!

There were winter boots on sale.

For grownups

For the babies

In addition to the festivities (both sonorous and otherwise) and the footwear, our neighbourhood was teeming. The veggie sellers were out in droves, there were animals everywhere, both dead and alive, and if alive then frustratingly tethered. Laundry was airing for good health. Unlike in Turkey, China likes fresh air. In Turkey, fresh air will surely kill you but Chinese air apparently does the opposite.

On a lovely day, one must air one's bedding

The ginger man cometh

Fresh fish in the sun, halved, aching slightly

Unrelated to the theme of the lovely sunny day was the 666 massage parlour. I hear they give brimstone foot rubs.

The Devil's massage parlour

And finally, in a tangent pertaining to my blasted novella, it’s Hector Lakemonster’s birthday today.  He’s 42 in human years, or 36 by water monster calculation. He’s still waiting to see what the intuitive goats have in store for him.

A Series of Unrelated Photos (Part 2)


2010
12.04

For Part 1, go here

This blog was left negligently unattended for much of November whilst I diverted myself and my energies with that blasted novella about goats and monsters and such. However, that doesn’t mean I neglected to use the camera on my phone. No, I’m still compulsively intruding on people’s privacy and documenting nearly everything that tickles my fancy, even for the most minor reasons.

For this reason, I am giving you a small photo essay of yet more unrelated photos from November.

First of all, November was grim. After Shanghai Expo 2010 shut down at the end of October, pollution levels somehow skyrocketed. Apparently, on November 14th, the level had reached around 300 on the Awfulness Index. 200, from what I understand, is deemed toxic. The following are pictures taken two days in a row, early in the morning before work, from our living room window, 16 floors above central Shanghai. It’s a wonder I even bothered getting up in the morning.

Despair

Kevin the Panda meets the Bleak Void

Beyond the bleakness and despair of Shanghai’s meteorological badness, I made friends with a few new food groups.

First of all, meet my picnic lunch, gathered from various sources around East China Normal University, where I had to go to observe the teachers in the other half of our program (I’m the entire staff over at Tongji). It’s a beautiful campus, all leafy with ponds and bridges and secret tiny poured concrete picnic tables in hidden places amongst foliage by the ponds.  I decided that health and nutrition were not determining factors in my meal so I went with whatever grabbed me.  It was a friday afternoon, so I chose a lovely beer for my pond side beverage (Asahi being the least awful of the watery choices at Lawson’s). The Hot and Sour Fish Soup crisps just appealed to my curiosity for the implausible. The Jian Bing was there to show it isn’t just for breakfast any more. I am currently running a private campaign to make all three meals plus snacks jian bing friendly.

A fine picnic by the fake pond

While dining on my fine picnic feast, I watched a man feed the fish in the pond.

His pink bag was filled with fish food

In addition the picnic lunches, I also expanded my Oreo cookie repertoire. China, unlike Turkey, sells Oreos. This is a huge perk. Not only do they sell the traditional cookie with the white middle, but also strawberry, peanut butter, chocolate, vanilla ice cream and minty green tea ice cream flavours. At work, in my desk drawer, I am currently working on the green tea ice cream ones. They’ve somehow rigged the chemicals in the filling to have both a slightly green-tea and cool mint flavour.

Minty Green Tea Ice Cream Oreos (at last!)

And finally in the food department, for a bit of mind-fuckery, chewing gum multi packs in flavours you had possibly not anticipated: from what I can gather, they come in lavender, lemon grass and cucumber. Chinese-literate people, please correct me if my guesses are off. This ad is on the wall in the metro and I see it every day, going to and from work. It fascinates me. Mint, strawberry, pink-bubblegum flavours? Ha! Not a chance, you tedious, predictable has-beens!

Flavours may vary

In other news, I would like to present you with one last image:  this is me washing my silks in the manner described by my awesome student. Cold water soaking in the utility sink , just off the kitchen. I’ll be wringing, rinsing and hanging them later today. After I make more coffee. Apparently I am living at least vaguely like the locals. Wooot! Integration!

Washing my delicates authentically

Helpful Household Tips from Chinese University Students


2010
12.03

Do you want to know one of the fastest ways to wrap your head around a new country and culture?  Teach there.  Let me show you some things I learned today whilst marking my students’ process essays.

Contemplating Household Hints

How to wash your hair

First, you need to buy shampoo, wash basin and face cloth at the super market. Second, open the bottle of shampoo and put it beside you. The next step is put half a pot of hot water to wash basin when the water is full. Please soaked the face cloth. At the same time, lower your head, use the face cloth wet your hair. Afterward, besmear shampoo in your hair and besmear it equably in between the hair. Accomplish it. Use the hot water washed shampoo away. Please repeat it twice. At last, blow dry your hair by hair dryer.

-Zebin

How to wash clothing

Drying time

Firstly, put some detergent to the cold water and let it melt in the water. Secondly, put the clothes into the detergent water and let them soak in it for about half an hour and let the detergent work well. Then, rub the clothes with hands from the dirtiest parts to the whole clothes. Next, dry clothes by twisting from the detergent water. After this, wash clothes 2-3 times with clean water till the water is clean. Finally, hang the clothes up and let them dry.

-Eric

How to cook fish

This ought to be freshly killed

Firstly, the fish is washed and then put in the dish and then the oil and fish is put into the furnace. For a minute, the fish is turned over until you small the good smalling. Secondly, the spices is put like wine, start, burden and son. Thirdly, the fish is softed. Finally the fish is dished up.

-Ally

How to stew chicken broth

First, buy a chicken

Beforehand, go to the market and buy a chicken. First of all, wash clean the chicken, mushroom, and peels off the skin of the spring bamboo. After this, keep mushroom. Use heat opens water to hang about five minutes. And than spring bamboo becomes little slice from deep. It boils five minutes in water. It drags to rise release beside. At last keep water in marmite shaokais. Release chicken, boil very much. Release spring bamboo and mushroom again, add salt, season with monosodium glutamate. Go to chicken ripe directly.

-Tiffany

How to cook the tomato with eggs

Photo credit: essentialbaby.com.au

Firstly the eggs tomatoes and some onion is got ready. Then all things is wished. Secondly, the eggs is put into the bowl then the tomatoes and onion is cut. Thirdly the onion and eggs is put into the furnace and turn over again and again. Finally the food is dished up.

-Elaine

How to put the giraffe in the fridge

Image from fx.worth1000.com

To begin with, open the fridge. Later put the elephant out. At the same time, put the giraffe in. In the last stage, close the fridge.

-Raphael

After NaNoWriMo Passes, Inertia Sets In


2010
12.02

First of all, I finished that novel(la):

That would be me

So yes, yes I did write that blasted thing. At work, my stack of writing to mark grew to unfathomable heights (sorry kids!) and my mornings and nights and weekends were spent trying to squeeze out just a few more words.

I didn’t know I had so many words in me. In fact, looking back, I don’t think I did.

I looked over my not-exactly-a-novel last night for the first time since I slammed that Pages file shut on monday, when I hit 50,028 words (mid sentence, yet! I was that done with it!) and realized that it was just a fictionalized extended blog post, with lots of cats, goats and monsters thrown in. Not that it was bad, no- it wasn’t nearly as odious as I had led myself to believe whilst I was writing it and dutifully not looking back. No, I actually kind of like it. However, this ridiculously arbitrary exercise has taught me a few things about writing that I will diligently not turn into a Top Ten List here.

Uno:

I discovered that even when I have the infinite possibilities of  fiction presented to me, I still don’t actually do stuff in my writing.  By this, I mean I still write the phone book. I can write 2000 words in one sitting in which not one character has actually even lifted a finger or budged an inch. You want sword fights? Adventure? Battles? Magic? Conflict? A plot driven story line that just propels itself forward? Yeah, no.

I spent 50,028 words in a fairly linear direction from here to there, with an uneventful train journey, a long uneventful hike in a parallel universe forest and a series of relatively uneventful encounters with various unexpected water monster villages. Nobody gets killed. No one even gets a paper cut. A few cats have a brief quarrel. A water monster is peeved because another water monster snores. The main character is hungry and a bit tired a lot of the time. A lot of coffee is drunk and sofas are sat on. Conversations and thoughts predominate.

I will not be the next JK Rowling.

I may be your next phone book compiler.

Dos:

I repeat myself. A lot. It’s like I have a one track mind. I didn’t stop to reread as I wrote as I knew my inner editor (let’s call her Marsha) would start getting cranky and annoyed and I’d end up deleting a lot of words when my main purpose was bulk bulk bulk. I was diligently not contracting words (so many ‘I will’s and  ’he is’s and ‘did not’s and suchlike) and was carefully rhythmically repeating words and phrases in a way that I hoped was both poetic and word-count enhancing.

And looking back, I realized that I repeated a lot of inner monologues… except I was getting my characters mixed up for the first week or two, and so first one and then another and then another had the same (but differently phrased) thoughts/reactions.

This extended to my complete lack of action as well: in that uneventful hike through the parallel universe, they came across one village (description ensues) then eat dinner, have a glass of wine and maybe a coffee, then go to bed. Repeat in next village, with different food, different monsters, different conversations, different mood.

It was almost like I had decided to riff on a theme on an endless loop. When you reread it, it doesn’t seem like a series of repeated events because all the little bits change and most of it takes place within speech and thought, but it is still pretty stupid, narratively speaking.

Tres:

I actually finished it. Which is something I have never done before. I’m not really someone who follows through with… stuff. Yay. And it isn’t bad. I need to repeat this for myself again: it actually isn’t awful. Yay me! I pulled a half decent novella out of my backside in 30 days without any forethought or planning or even brainstorming before hand. All the characters and events just showed up as I ploughed through it. And (in my mind) they are actually interesting.

And I managed to successfully include goats and the phrase ‘coke-fuelled rampage’, as requested by others.

Quatro:

I think I prefer 600 word blog posts.

Any day now, I should be getting an email from the lovely Heather over at Matador.com asking for the follow up to the initial profile they did on me (and three others- am not that special), with an excerpt of the novel. Am desperately scanning all 87 pages, looking for something that would both make sense and not make me regret sharing it later.  Like I said, it isn’t bad…it’s just kind of…um…kind of….um….goaty.  And water monstery. And suchlike.

I should re-draw this to include goats and French cats

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